Definition
What Is an Espadrille? Parts, Materials and Main Types
An espadrille is a canvas shoe on a braided rope sole. Here are its parts, what the sole is made of today, and how laced and slip-on styles differ.
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An espadrille is a light shoe with a fabric upper (usually canvas or cotton) sewn onto a sole of braided plant fibre. That rope sole is what makes it an espadrille: take it away and you have a canvas slipper. The Spanish Wikipedia article sums it up as footwear made from spun fibres with a sole of plant origin, held on the foot either by its own fit or by ribbons.
The parts of an espadrille
The Spanish-language tradition gives each part a name, which helps when you read about the shoe in Spain or Latin America:
| Part | Spanish term | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Upper over the instep | capellada | covers the front of the foot; on the classic shoe, toe and vamp are cut from one piece |
| Heel piece | talonera | wraps the back of the foot |
| Tie | atadero | joins the front to the heel piece |
| Sole | suela | braided fibre rope, coiled and stitched |
On the traditional model described by English Wikipedia, laces fixed at the throat of the shoe are wrapped around the ankle.
What the sole is made of
The old soles were braided esparto, a tough Mediterranean grass, or hemp, as the Catalan encyclopedia notes for the Catalan espardenya. Today jute dominates because it is cheaper and easier to source, and its bright natural colour has become part of the look. Underneath, most jute soles now carry a layer of fully or partly vulcanised rubber, so the rope is not in direct contact with the ground. We compare the fibres on jute vs esparto.
English Wikipedia describes the modern process in four steps: jute twine is braided by machine, shaped by hand and pressed hydraulically with heat; the sole is stitched with espadrille needles and vulcanised underneath; a heel, if any, is glued on and wrapped in more braid; and only then is the upper attached.
The two big families
Spanish Wikipedia classifies espadrilles in two ways:
- By fastening: with ribbons or laces tied round the ankle, or slip-on, held by the fit of the upper.
- By sole: flat, or raised, usually as a wedge. The wedge has its own story, told on who invented the wedge espadrille.
A shoe for everyone, then for summer
The traditional espadrille was worn by men and women and, according to English Wikipedia, was the usual footwear of peasants since at least the 14th century. French Wikipedia notes that in the 21st century it has become a summer fashion shoe. Most modern styles are made for women, though men's models exist.
For the shoe's many names, see the home page; for the word itself, where does the word espadrille come from.
Frequently asked questions
What is the sole of an espadrille made of?
Traditionally braided esparto or hemp rope; today it is usually jute, often with a layer of vulcanised rubber underneath.
Are espadrilles for men or women?
Both. The traditional shoe was worn by men and women alike, although most modern styles are aimed at women.
Sources
Pages consulted for this article: